Posted by: J.D. Isaac | August 26, 2009

When God Puts A Wrench In My Machine

I had a painful realization during my climbing session on Saturday — that my body, and in particular, left middle-finger, was demanding a 4-6 week vacation. The A2 pulley has been injured for about 6 weeks, but I continued to climb on it. Sure, I’ve taped it every which way, I’ve taken a full week  and a half off, eaten Glucosimine like it was going out of style, but nothing has helped. Every time I get in the gym and pull-down, it flares up and I regret it the next couple of days. On Saturday, the reality hit home when I couldn’t even climb routes that I’ve previously been walking up with ease.

I’m going to be honest, 2009 has been my best and worst climbing year. Granted, it is only my 2nd year of focused training for the sport; but, it started off bad – with an injured right ring pulley. Before the new year, I was finishing a top-rope lap session and came down to boulder. The problem was that I’d been climbing for 2 hours or so and already had a sore tendon in my right ring finger. Of course, I ignored this and went on to my boulder projects, which were two very tweaky V6′s. After working out the moves for one of them, I had just watched my buddy finish it and was ready for the send myself. The problem called for a complete cut of the feet, which left me with only my fingers on tiny crimp holds. Then I had to swing my feet around and pull-up at the same time to gain a high foot chip, then launch for the finish. I knew the moves, but during the execution, my right ring finger made a snapping sound, like a pencil being snapped in two. I knew what I had done, and I was devastated. Especially since I was supposed to be climbing in New Mexico the following month as part of my  honeymoon. It took me 6 weeks of no climbing to recover – although, I will admit I still climbed in NM and did send a V2 and 5.10c with my damaged goods. yea…I’m awesome ;) …stubborn and stupid more like it.

The finger did heal nicely and I got back into the swing of things, lead climbing and bouldering, but mostly focused on my lead. On a May trip to NM I sent a 5.11c, a VERY long 5.11b, and got close to a 5.11c/d the last day. That is the hardest I’ve ever climbed on lead and I was pretty proud of the accomplishments.

Two weeks later I would tweak my left middle finger pulley and a week or two after that, almost dislocate my shoulder during an endurance traverse set. Bummer.

Being methodical and obsessive about things (more the latter), I naturally tried to diagnose the problems. I knew, and still believe, that the wrenching of  my shoulder can be attributed to out of balance antagonist muscles (push muscles) that I have neglected for about a year. Ok, cool, I know how to fix that. Just start working the push muscles in my off-days. But what about my finger? I should have strong digits for all the vertical movement that I do, and supplemental workouts like hang boards and finger curls (yes…finger curls), but progress is frustratingly slow and it seems that injury, rather than gains in strength, is the natural result. Why?

The most frustrating part of all of this is that I have spent the last 4 weeks in an endurance oriented regimen that has not over-worked my injured finger, yet the tendon is no stronger than when I first tweaked it. Although the training has taught me most of all how to rest on routes, after a week of no climbing, I seem to be back to square one with no improvement in anything. Needless to say, my spirit is downcast.

Bottom line: when climbing stops being fun, it’s time to stop climbing. I have successfully ignored the messages that my body is sending me – “LET ME HEAL!” And, don’t take climbing so seriously. True, it is a serious endeavor, but only sometimes. Gym climbing is not, and was originally intended to allow climbers a means to keep training in the off season. Outdoors is where it matters. But even then…it’s only climbing. Most normal people think we are crazy anyway. Sure, top roping in a gym is novel and “neat” in a touristy kind of way, but many folks that patronize the local gyms wouldn’t dare cut their teeth on a true crag.

And so, when the Almighty puts a major wrench in my climbing machine, I can ignore it, like I’ve been doing and fight a losing battle, or realize that it might be for my own good. I know a lot about physical fitness, about nutrition, about climbing-specific workouts and periodization techniques, about how to be a better athlete at my chosen sport, but what I don’t know, or do well at all, is how to listen to unpleasant truths, and put into action those things that I know are best.

It is a very fragile thing, the body. More than anything, I have realized what a great privilege and luxury it is to be able to do something like rock climb. So, even though I have to take several weeks off to heal, and be more disciplined in my regimen, and listen to my body, which says “It doesn’t get any easier”, I should enjoy it all while it lasts, because it can all be taken away in a second. Climbing is as much about patience and the quality of the journey, as it is about getting to the top.

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | August 24, 2009

Blood Meridian: The greatest novel of the last two decades?

Cormac McCarthy

Cormac McCarthy

I recently finished Cormac McCarthy’s violent epic, Blood Meridian. There is not enough time to even begin to unpack the density of this novel into something categorical that would do it justice, especially in this format, but I wanted to try and put down some of my initial thoughts.

The first palpable characteristic of the novel is McCarthy’s prose, which is largely void of punctuation and certainly archaic, even ancient in voice. He does not use quotation marks to denote a character speaking, he does not use commas or anything of the sort. In fact, the only punctuation that he uses at all are periods. As I have searched the Internet for commentary, some suggest that what McCarthy is trying to accomplish, and alluding to, is the Bible – especially the Old Testament and Hebrew syntax, where the use of “and” and repeating ideas is present, rather than precise punctuation and subordination in prose. As such, McCarthy’s very structure is an allusion in itself, and is the canvas on which he paints his nightmarish depiction of this world.

Literary allusions are frequent throughout this book, and McCarthy relies heavily on great authors such as Milton, Melville and Wordsworth. Milton’s Satan, Melville’s Ahab, and Wordsworth’s poetic imagery are all present, yet changed somehow. As if, when entering McCarthy’s world, they morph into something unrecognizable from the former, while still needing them to exist, but being wholly and completely their own. The author even suggests that his character, the judge, cannot be divided back into his origins, as if to say the predecessors no longer matter and what has been created rests on a fundamentally unique foundation. And, in the Epilogue, McCarthy seems to acknowledge the fact that all that is relies on what has come before, that there is no great work which does not, and the man that digs the hole and draws the steel out of it and moves on is as much in debt to the one who dug before, just as we who are privy to these fires of creation are in debt to those who put it through the refining process for use as spectacle, utility or whatever need or want we have in our mind for it.

The fact that McCarthy can acknowledge this is a testament to his own maturity as an author. For, truly, what original work has ever been written in the history of literature? It could be argued that Scripture stands fully apart from this category. While its books maintain aspects of certain literary faculties present at the time, the content of it is profoundly unique. Peter Mansfield recognized this in his book A History of the Middle East, that the ancient Jews had the most complex and evolved moral system of any known civilization. Certainly, that was not by accident, nor by natural anthropological means as some might suggest. But, I digress on this point.

McCarthy also relies heavily on Sam Chamberlain’s  My Confession and by doing so also alludes to history, as well as literature. Certain characters in Blood Meridian share the same names, which has a dual effect that are not so clearly delineated when reading. Is McCarthy commenting on literature, or history? I think the answer is both. They are the tools by which McCarthy builds his sub-text and anti-plot. In fact, the absence of a hard plot structure allows the reader to take more notice of the literary and historical allusions that meld together in a forge of amoral fire, emerging as a new entity, baptized by the ponderous excavation of purposely imprecise and fantastical language.  Similar, yet foreign at once and ultimately associated with only those fringes of our reckoning. Like Ishmael on the deck of the Pequod and privy to the madness of the crew at the prompting and prodding of their maniacal, persuasive captain.

The moral ambiguity of McCarthy’s novel is elevated to a position of authority and thereby comes into an immediate conflict. By doing this, the question of morality becomes the primary question that the novel investigates. The nature of man and of his relationship to others, man and animal, are on display in a grotesque reality. McCarthy never states anything, but his lack of statement suggests the point in a somewhat nihilistic manner. Life and death are juxtaposed with similar whim, where one seems just as cheap as the other, and there is no preference. Death comes in passing in Blood Meridian, almost as if we are on a weekend stroll and notice scenes of decimation, blood and gore and continue on with no second thought to its wrenching nature. Of course, the scenes are enough to give the reader pause, but not the characters. This speaks to McCarthy’s ultimate quest. It gives us pause, and perhaps that is the point. Is McCarthy asking the larger moral question of “Why?”

My question is whether or not McCarthy’s novel is the greatest of the last two decades. With his references to literature, history and claims of having created something beyond them, that can not be simply divided back into the sources of its origin, McCarthy has made some bold claims. He delivers, however, and scholars are not lost on the depth of his fiction. He presents us with a stark non-reality that challenges our notions of right and of history. As a South-westerner and one raised on a border town, I find his exploration of the interaction between Anglos, Mexicans and Indians disturbing alternative to the popular mythology of the wild west. I think McCarthy’s novel not only cuts to the heart of the fundamental human problem, but also helps to see more clearly the truth of a romanticized period in history, where resentment and anger fester to this day because of actions taken on all sides.

By the way, two video posts by Yale’s English Lit department discuss McCarthy’s book in detail and is where I found a majority of commentary on his work. There are some other helpful resources, but the videos are a good intro.

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | August 11, 2009

Fear, Terror and the Psychology of the Mortal

What am I thinking?

What am I thinking?

Every time I’m preparing to climb a new route, I get major butterflies in my stomach. Not only that, but I will try to find excuses NOT to climb it. Usually, this happens when I am with my brother, a professional, as he is flaking out the rope at the base of a sport climb and I am looking up counting the number of bolts and the distance between each one, trying to read the climb like a book and imagining myself in the moves. Some of this mental exercise is beneficial, but whatever benefits I gain by visualization is washed out by my incessant “No way in hell” voice.

The problem is that I am stubborn as a jackass, and sometimes have a disposition that is no better. So, I will get on the climb and usually surprise myself. Last time I did this I onsighted a 5.11b at the Enchanted Tower that was a total pump fest and seemed to go on forever. I was shaky three-quarters of the way up and on a bad undercling pinch with my right and a bad something-else with my left, had pulled rope – which was heavy as an anvil, dropped it, pulled it again, dropped it again, then I started saying my prayers, pulled rope, yelled “Clipping!” for the third time, and jammed that 10.2 millimeter lifeline through the gate, said “Thank you God” and moved two feet to a bomber jug that I hung out on for about 5 minutes. I could have just kept going, but I didn’t want to fall the 20 feet, so I was content to struggle to clip as my legs looked like a sewing machine and arms felt like they were going to burst open. I made the clip, but at what price? A 15 or 20 footer on a slight overhang wouldn’t have been that bad. But, more to the point, a huge jug was coming up, so I wouldn’t have fallen at all. I could have recovered and made the next clip smoothly, without shaking like an acne faced teenager on prom night.

The point is, I wasn’t thinking “I can keep going and see what comes next”, I was thinking “Holy !@#$, I am going to fall and die!” Which is the more rational thought given my circumstance (good bolts on a slight overhang).

As we well know, being a strong climber is not just a matter of body but a matter of mind. There is no strong climber who cannot overcome the fear, the terror, the psychology of the mortal; because, when it really comes down to it, that is what we are afraid of. If there were no possibility death or injury, where would our fear come from, or be directed towards?

There are techniques that can be effectively utilized to overcome these sometimes debilitating voices. The most difficult, and the best technique in the world that I have found all strong climbers possess, is that they don’t think about falling. It truly never enters their mind, or if it does, it is in terms of tactics — in other words, calculating risk. If I know that I am on a bolted route with a good fall underneath me, what’s the problem? To use a variation of far Eastern philosophy, in this scenario “there is no fall”. However, if I am on a 60 foot run-out, where my last piece of gear placement is questionable, or maybe has moved because of rope drag, then the risk calculation becomes a bit different. There are such things as “no fall zones”, which basically means, “falling = very, very bad”. “There is no fall” turns into “There is a really long f’ing fall, so don’t do it.”

It’s on the former, however, that I would like to park on for a bit. “There is no fall” doesn’t of course mean that you will not fall, but that the fall doesn’t enter your mind and that focus then becomes on what is immediately in front of you. It doesn’t matter if you fall, because nothing will happen (given that your gear is in proper, working condition). But, assuming everything is in working order, you will fall, swing around for a bit, then get back on the wall, or be lowered down. There are a certain number of competencies one must attain for “There is no fall” to be effective, though. These include all of the good practices that lead climbers learn to develop: technique, fitness, minding the rope, clipping (to pull or not to pull), and route reading. If a lead climber is sloppy with his rope work — e.g. pulling rope when he ought not to — then a fall will result in potentially decking. But, these are all skills that can be learned. Once the competency level is reached, “There is no fall” begins to take shape in the mind, where falling matters less and less, or rather, only matters in the moment of the action.

Most of the climbers I have talked to have said that the singular moment where terror is at its highest is when there is enough time to consider the fall. Usually, when you are feeling pumped and you know there is no way in hell that next move is going to happen – no matter how good the hold is that you are moving to. Once the fall is over, though, usually nerves calm down and the rest of the climbing, and falling, is no big deal.

I’ve been working on “There is no fall” for a while now. It works, sort of. I am predisposed to over-thinking in general, so for me to turn off my mind to accommodate the non-thought is difficult. Some are just better at it than others. Like anything, though, it is a matter of habit and conditioning. The more you do it, the more your brain will start in that mode when the activity is at hand. But, I no longer try to read the routes from the bottom. In my mind, that is a pointless exercise, because everything looks different once on the wall anyway — and you have the tactile sensation to deal with: that hold you thought was good from the ground might be total crap on the wall. It’s different when bouldering, because you can usually see the entire problem and more than likely have already been on it and are solving and climbing in parallel. Sport routes and big wall is an exception and usually you just have to get on and go.

So, what is my strategy now at the base of a crag as my brother is flaking out the rope? Thinking about not thinking about climbing.

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | August 9, 2009

On Wagon Trail With Clint Eastwood

Clint Eastwood in Hang 'Em High

Clint Eastwood in Hang 'Em High

Yesterday it was health care, today it is Clint Eastwood. That’s right, the man, the myth, the legend in all his squinty-eyed glory. By the way, if you were wondering why I called this blog “The Multifarious Pen”, this is why. Not because I am so skilled at different types or styles of writing, but because I go from health care to Clint – because it if fun and I like it!

I must admit that I (along with my wife, I might add) have been on a Clint Eastwood kick as of late. That is to say that, thanks to Netflix instant streaming, I have been going crazy adding ‘ol Clint’s movies to my queue. Roll your eyes if you want, but to my surprise I have found these late 1960 and 1970 Westerns have some things to say in some very powerful and profound ways.

So as not to bore you to death, I will only mention one for now that I have recently watched: Hang ‘Em High.

In Hang ‘Em High, Eastwood plays a retired Sheriff who is starting a life as a cattle rancher. As he is moving his purchased cattle to his homestead, he is intercepted by a posse from the town he had left. The posse believes that he is the murderer of the owner of the cattle, essentially a cattle rustler, and falsely accuse him of the crime. Eastwood is tried and hanged on the spot. The posse rides off, believing justice has been served, and Eastwood is left for dead. Luckily, a passing marshal of the Oklahoma territory finds him hanging from the rope, cuts him loose and Eastwood survives. He recovers and is later found innocent by the judge who oversees the only court in Oklahoma for the designated territory. That is only the beginning of the movie. The judge ends up persuading Eastwood to take a job as a marshal, because the territory is so large and there are so few people who have the fortitude necessary to ride after the outlaws in the back country.

The movie asks some very interesting questions, not the least of which is “Whose right is it to judge?” What I found most interesting and compelling about this movie is that it did not portray the judge as a cruel, heartless tyrant, but as a stern seeker of the truth, and who was genuinely concerned with the progress of the state (Oklahoma). Conversely, Eastwood plays the role of the one who is always confronting the judge about his judgments and the sometimes brutal nature of their outcome. Eastwood also bargains for the life of a man who he thinks is innocent, in a scene that makes us forget about the typological Eastwood character. There are also several very lucid dialogues between the judge and Eastwood, where the judge offers exposition on justice and his duty, even going so far as saying “I wish there was someone between me and God” – where he acknowledges the flawed nature of any justice system based on the judgments of man. These scenes often render Eastwood speechless, because the judge fully embraces his imperfection, yet the need for a justice system that is not seen as weak to those who would seek to exploit it, and for the good of the Oklahoma territory, which was not yet a state in the Union.

The writers of Hang ‘Em High got a lot of things right. I found myself expecting that Eastwood’s point of view, which was extreme on both ends of the scale, and sometimes apathetic, to dominate, but they did not. In fact, the reality that there has to be some justice present, even if that justice is imperfect, was the dominant theme. And, historically, the Wild West was tamed by men like the judge, who demanded justice and not arbitrary, or ad-hoc, adjudication. His demand to “bring them in alive” was the driving force that eventually made the Wild West a place where people could live out life in civil society. Eastwood’s acquiescence to this philosophy indicated his willingness to be held under it, even if he did not agree with it one-hundred percent – he still saw the value in such a system. Likewise, the judge never once gave the impression that he had all the answers, only that judgement was left to his office alone and no other.

These are the gems that I love to find in cinema, old and new, and the reason I love to watch good movies.

I have also watch some other movies recently: Dr. Strangelove, Joe Kidd (Eastwood), and Moby Dick (yes, the original with Gregory Peck). Each one has been very interesting in their own way. Since I’m on the Eastwood wagon, I’ll write about Joe Kidd next!

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | August 7, 2009

Not As Simple…

Is anybody asking the question “Does it matter whether or not these town hall uprisings are planned by the GOP or not?” Either way, if they are being planned by the GOP, or are a grassroots effort organized by the people themselves, the entire notion that they are well-dressed, disguised, Nazi fascists is completely asinine.

What is more simple to conceptualize? That there is a secret underground, centralized channel organizing these efforts around the country, such that no direct evidence can be presented to its existence – who are, by the way, closet Nazis? Or, that people are uncomfortable with the speed of National Health Care legislation and are making their voices heard through their local communities? Is it really that hard to imagine a mass of people agreeing on an issue and are raising their voices in protest? It happens all the time – of course not in this country, but elsewhere.

Yes, protests that we see on TV or the Internet in far away lands may have some organizational structure, they have to – but where there is spin on the part of those being protested against, there should be severe hesitation on the part of the public to believe it. Usually, people have good reasons for doing something, even if one doesn’t agree with those reasons. Things are never as simple as we want them to be and spin is a damage recovery tactic. It is not meant to relate truth.

When The Speaker of the House says that protesters are “Carrying swastikas and things like that”…are they really, or is that the paradigmatic statement for fear mongering? Also, what other “things” like swastikas are they carrying? Can you please describe those also? It was an ad-hominem interview and that’s the best she could come up with? Maybe they are also carrying effigies of Adolf Hitler, Mussolini and Stalin with prayer hands and halos, along with torches and pitch forks and other “things like that”. Actually, the only effigies I’ve read about them carrying are of blowhard Senators and House Representatives – and they aren’t wearing halos.

The fact is that people are uncomfortable with the notion of Government run health care, and there is enough evidence to suggest that the proponents of it intend to phase out the private option. Don’t be fooled that because we can implement a short-term strategy that allows both for now, that there is not a long-term strategy that will uphold one to the exclusion of the other.

Being comfortable with spin and accepting lies from those who we choose to represent us in the halls of power is simply unacceptable. We should demand transparency, and it is not happening. How many times have we heard that there will be a private option available, yet the people who wrote the book on National Health Care see it as only being a means to an end? Namely, the end of private health care period.

Health care is a problem in this country, no doubt. But there is another problem – we want too much government. We expect that our government is going to be our catch all service provider. This is inherently a dangerous mind-set for several reasons, but more than that is the fact that many of us are willing to hand them the reins, sit back, drink our mochas and lattes and not think twice about it. Beltway politicians can do whatever the hell they want and we are expected to remain quiet. And, when we do raise our voice, these fat cats get nervous and start spouting none sense. Is anyone else listening? Let’s all put down our too expensive, luxury dark roast with whip cream and start paying attention. It’s time to look for another way.

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | July 20, 2009

Training for Climbing: Week 3, Part 4

Haven’t posted in a while, but here’s an update for those in my imagination who care:

Last week was spent weight lifting and working the antagonist muscles on M, W, and T, TH was spent doing laps and lead climbing in the gym for 2-3 hours. My lead climbing has gotten markedly better. Good news, but I have to stick with it if I want to climb those 12′s. Two more weeks of this, then I will have to decide if I should move on to the Max Power phase, or take it easy.

My finger is getting better, but I have been waking up with extreme pain and have to almost force my hand to make a fist. But, once I wake up and get going, it almost immediately subsides. My theory is that blood flow is not as efficient during sleep, especially to the extremities, so that’s what causes my finger to feel so horrible. Thankfully, when I’m climbing, or just doing normal work with my hands, I don’t feel it unless I put pressure on the area.

I took the past three days off because I didn’t want to antagonize my finger any more. It has helped and the pain is much better. But, I don’t know if two weeks is going to be enough time to start jumping on hard boulder problems and max power circuits. I might change it up to the Anaerobic conditioning for the next part and save Max Power for the final two weeks.

All in all, feeling strong, save for my finger, which is healing slowly.

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | July 16, 2009

Why We Climb

Why We Climb

by Justin Isaac (C) 2009

It is perhaps the most basic of philosophical questions and one that the child learning to speak and think is most adept, if not the master. The traditionalist’s refusal, or remissness, to ask or acknowledge the question is doomed to remain in a form of ignorance, while the skeptic’s love and worship of the question placates himself to a type of ontological purgatory, where nothing can be known and where the basis for everything rests on a desert of shifting sands. The question is of course, “Why?” I’m sure there is a volume of books written by scholars much more suited to answer the profundity of this question than I am, and I am content to remain focused on the pertinent question, “Why do we climb?”

There are a myriad of answers that I believe would assist the questioner to leave the conversation in some state of appeasement. Yet I think, as I often do, that despite the ancillary nature of such answers, it can be boiled down to a several fundamental ideas that I will attempt to unravel here. But before I do that, let’s consider the nature of climbing specifically in all of its manifestations, whether it be rock, ice or mountaineering. I don’t have to tell you that climbing is exactly that, climbing. The goal is to start from the bottom and get to the top. No revelation there. But, when one considers all of the hazards that come with such an activity, the simplicity begins to get lost in a danger-maze that does not allow a logical answer. In fact, I would propose that the answers to the question “Why do we climb” are not logical at all, but more intuitive when seen through the lens of human nature, and human history. We do have a tendency to be illogical at times, maybe even most of the time — and, that is not altogether a bad thing.

To illustrate this point, I had an opportunity to spend 6 weeks in Jordan last summer where I was teaching conversational English in the capital, Amman. During my days off, I would travel and marvel at the ancient history that can be found in that country. One of the most remarkable places I was able to visit was a valley called Wadi Rum in the Southern most region. You may have heard of it, as it is known for its sprawling sandstone walls of red, tan and orange, where there can be found some multi-pitch traditional climbing, and a few bolted routes. It is also one of the places where T.E. Lawrence and the tribal Beduin army camped during their campaign to take Damascus during World War I. During my two day visit, I traveled with Beduin guides by 4X4 across the plains and through the mountains and was able to spend some time conversing with them, mostly in English, but sometimes in what little Arabic I know. Being a climber, I naturally found the ancient walls attractive and asked my guides if anyone would climb there. They did not understand me in English, so I had to translate in Arabic what I was trying to ask. Eventually they understood and simply said “Yes, people come. We watch them as the climb and sometimes they fall. It is very, very dangerous.” When I asked them if they have every climbed up one of the mountains like that, the response was “Why go that way? You can go around the other side and it is easier!” There is no refuting that logic.

My point in telling you the above story is to say that climbing, and many of the recreational activities we enjoy, are largely due to culture in which we have been raised. This is neither a good or bad thing, but simply how it is. Coming from a purely logical standpoint, if one wants to get to the top of a mountain, like Beduin who might be hunting, or trying to find a lost goat or sheep, the best way is the easiest way. And, there are stories of Beduin who have scaled those walls in bare feet at grades upwards of 5.8 to do just that; however, they are not doing it for fun. And it is this that I believe is a fundamental determining factor in why we climb. Either, it is for recreation, or it is for one’s livelihood, work, etc. Again, this is nothing revelatory, I am simply setting the groundwork for the discussion to follow, because “fun” is a relative term. An extension of the question “Why do we climb” is “Why is it fun?” Now we are getting into some muddy waters.

The phrase “different strokes for different folks” comes to mind when considering why someone might find climbing fun. But, when we look at the progeny of the activity, I believe we see individuals who were at their heart rebels and found in climbing an outlet, an activity where they could physically manifest their disdain for the status quo. Climbing became a sort of middle finger, where by engaging in the dirtbag climber lifestyle they could prove that one didn’t have to spend his or her life in a suit, working in an office, in a factory, or otherwise engaged in something that was not of their own choosing, or had no bearing on their ultimate life – that there was another way.

Most of you reading this might already be familiar with the unfortunate passing of John Bachar, one of the few who pioneered the sport and lifestyle of climbing in various ways. I believe we can see in Bachar, and men and women of his ilk, the quintessential rock climber: a person who dedicated his life to the pursuit of mastering the free solo, a pure climbing activity, primal and medieval his realization. The only technology he used was rubber shoes and chalk. The mountains, the granite, sandstone and limestone cliff faces, allowed Bachar and others to paint on an otherwise blank canvas a vision of ultimate liberation from the tech-infected megalopolises, where the electronic circuit promised to make life simpler, but only made it more complicated, and in fact, more inane. Now, I don’t pretend to know the man, I am only making an observation based on my experience within the larger climbing world, and from stories I have read about him. I would argue in light of the forefathers of climbing, though, that there is a bit of rebellion in the activity because of its inherently dangerous nature. “You say I can’t do that? That I shouldn’t do that? Well…watch me.” And on we go.

Climbers have always been an independent sort, but in seeking that independence, maybe it could be called liberation, have discovered and formed a separate community and sub-culture where we rely on each other. This is seen in the simple, but life-saving act of belaying, to giving beta when a fellow climber is struggling. I have come to realize that one thing we enjoy more than anything else is the essential realization of nature that rock climbing affords us. That on the wall we discover something about ourselves and about the natural world, that by engaging in the very activity, we are almost admitting our individual smallness in view of the whole of creation and of history. And, that when away from our lives of the cities, sojourning to commune at the crags of the world, we find something that seems to be grossly lacking from our fast-paced lives – that of community. At the crags, we slow down, take in the silence, breathe in and out in deep profound breaths while on the wall, focus and sense the beauty around us, and share the experience with others, our friends and family. Some of whom we meet at these places of congregation.

It might be my proclivities to desire true community that leads me to the above conclusion, but there is no denying that climbing is also an individual pursuit, as much as it is about experiencing the mountains and crags with others. It has been said that climbers are simply narcissists who would rather play for a living than engage in the “real” world. While this may be true for some of us, I would also say that the most altruistic endeavors in this world have contained in their ranks individuals of the most severe narcissistic leanings; thus, such a statement can be generalized to most pursuits of humankind, not just climbing. However, I would like to make the argument here that when one realizes the truth of what is occurring during the upward motion on a slab of stone, mountain or frozen waterfall, there is nothing in that moment that is more real. Rocks are not manufactured by the fires of industry, or the cool, refrigerated clean rooms of sleek corporations engineering the silicone marvels to one day replace the human brain, but cast in the raw, elemental magma that has formed the very foundation of life itself. In a sense, by climbing on boulder, cliff or mountain we are traversing the records that are a testament to the eons. There are two things we can do with this: 1) we can assume that by our ability to traverse such records, we have somehow transcended them and they no longer matter, or 2) we realize that on the canvas of history, we play only a small part, but nonetheless an important part of a work that is always changing for the time that we are alive, and never ceasing to evolve in our absence.

Inasmuch as climbing is an individual pursuit, I would acknowledge that there resides in each person, to varying degrees, the desire or drive to know how much stress one can manage. The novelty of climbing for a beginner soon becomes a fascination in undertaking a physical and mental battle with one’s body and mind to discover who would come out the victor. This battle is a cycle of confidence, doubt, fear (or terror), strength, and weakness. We naturally do not want to feel afraid, or that we can’t do something, so we try to find in our environment something to test us. I have seen scores of new climbers come to enjoy the sport and return to the climbing gym week after week, and with furrowed brows, undertake the physical exertion and push their bodies and minds to whatever threshold they find there. Often, some never return, becoming frustrated with the lack of immediate success, perhaps a result of being conditioned to expect instant gratification in any pursuit – an entire discussion in and of itself – but climbing is an activity where the patient and consistent are ultimately those who are successful. We can see this pattern in the many facets of human behavior, whether it be a student who pushes herself to engage in mental challenges and exercises, or the athlete who finds himself peaking in the arena of combat with his peers, or the soldier who would rather die than to fail in his mission and fail his team, or the climber who undertakes the challenging call of the mountains. Wherever we see it, I believe what we find at the core of such behavior a person who considers the mysterious both enticing and antagonistic. A bit like wondering what is at the end of the proverbial rainbow: you can conjecture all day, but until you start walking, you will never truly know. Some people are ok with not knowing. Others, like us, want to know and it bothers us when we don’t. And so, we climb to discover if we can do it; or, to borrow a colloquialism – if we “have what it takes”.

Climbing, by its very nature, hardens our bodies and our minds. One cannot be a so-called “pansy” and be an effective rock climber. There may be people who struggle with the mental fortitude necessary, and I am certainly one of those people, but in the end, when the moment of truth arrives and you need to call upon all your faculties to stay on the rock, or to not panic in the face of imminent danger, we either find the strength necessary to do so, or we falter and fail. By saying “falter and fail” I do not mean falling. Not in the least. Falling is a natural result of climbing. You will fall, but there is a difference between falling and failing. The person who falls and becomes so frozen with fear that it incapacitates and paralyzes them may walk away and never come back – that person, in my estimation, has failed. They may be strong in other things, a brilliant scientist, artist, or whatever, but they will never be a successful climber. So, it stands to reason that those of us who remain to enjoy the sport are exercising the mental fortitude muscle, to increasingly become stronger, better, and braver. And, perhaps it is a rebellion of sorts against all of the fluff that we encounter in our daily lives, which will never be 100% free from uncertainty, and should be a bit uncomfortable at times. Safety and security, in many ways, are misnomers and are defined only to make us feel good about an otherwise ugly situation. And, I would suggest that this is nowhere as true as in a sport of climbing. It’s almost like going into war with a bullet proof vest and thinking you are safe. It is an inherently dangerous activity, and yes, you can sustain injury or die.

I would argue in light of this, that in the absence of danger to our persons, some of us will seek it out. This becomes apparent on a more unconscious level, because I don’t think any of us are saying “That looks exceedingly dangerous and life-threatening, let’s go do it!” – ok, well maybe some. But, there is something to be said about taking part in an activity that has obvious risks. Climbers are the type of people who are not content with playing it safe, and this is another important point to the “Why” question. Why do entrepreneurs risk going into gross debt for a business venture, why do some men dedicate themselves to the protection of their nation at the expense of their personal lives, why do astronauts willingly strap themselves to a rocket and calmly walk into the void of space, and why in the hell to climbers climb mountains? I believe it is because the alternative is a life spent always wondering what could have been, and we know that without risk there is no great reward. Sure, we can play it safe, but the result is a stagnate existence always spent spectating and never taking part. Who wants to be a critic when you can get in the ring and engage in the first person (ever wonder why those types of video games are so popular)? There is a time and place for pontification and philosophizing, like when you are writing an article about why we climb, but in the end, there is nothing quite like doing.

Although there are those who seek out activities such as climbing due to self-love and who desire adulation from their peers for being so unique – and I could comment on that, but for lack of time will save it for later – I believe that these encapsulate some of the fundamental reasons why we enjoy the very special activity of moving up on a rock, ice or mountain face. There is nothing quite like the liberation it affords us, the community with whom we share the experience, the benefits we gain from it by growing a strong mind and body, and the knowing of what we have accomplished. I for one will continue to seek out the climbing opportunities as long as my mind and body are able and I hope that you do too.

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | July 10, 2009

Training for Climbing: Week 1, Part 3

Last night was successful and I think my climbing partner and I worked hard and succeeded in breaking our bodies down over the course of 2 hours.

Jeff showed up an hour after I arrived, so I started a traverse set that ended up lasting an hour. Here’s what I did:

The traverse is about 40 feet, with a 35-40 degree overhanging boulder wall that occurs on one side, so you get a good pump.

-Traverse left to right; rest.

-Traverse left to right, then right to left; rest.

-Traverse right to left; rest

-Traverse left to right; rest

I was on the wall an average of 8 minutes at a time, with the exception of the traverse where I went around and back without stopping. My rests were an average of 5 minutes, so in all it was about a 60 minute workout.

Jeff showed up in the middle of my last traverse, so we got the harnesses on and headed to the top ropes for some laps.

Our lap workouts are as follows: 3 laps on a route 1 to 2 grades below what we are projecting, back to back with no rest in between sets. Essentially, we climb up, our belay partner lowers us as quickly as possible and we get back on the route with no rest. After one set, the other climber goes up a route and that counts as the rest time for the person who just climbed. Also, since this is endurance oriented, it is not imperative to climb a specific route, so it is a chance to be creative on the wall and make a route up, which is a lot of fun. Our goal is 5 sets of these, so that we would end up climbing 15 times, but both Jeff and I were pretty pumped by the end of the 4th set, and it was getting late, so we decided to call it a night.

Here are the routes I climbed in order:

-5.11+; 5.10 (x3) – on the same rope without stopping

-5.10 (x3) – this one was on a 20 degree or so overhanging wall for the first half, then vertical for the remainder.

-5.11, 5.10, 5.9 (x3) – this was on a wall with 3 different routes and I ended up mixing it up for all 3 due to my pump level.

-5.9, 5.7 (x3) – another wall with two routes that I just climbed on holds that I felt were good for a cool down.

Between Jeff and I, the total climb time was about 1 hour. Each set was about an average of 8 minutes on. Eventually, I’d like to be able to ratchet it up to 5 sets per route, with 5 sets, so that is 25 laps.

We still have 3 more weeks of endurance training, so there is plenty of time to make some progress!

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | July 8, 2009

Training for Climbing: Week 1, Part 2

Last night was a bit of a loss since my climbing partner had to cancel at the last minute. But I still got in a good workout. Here’s what I did:

-Warm-up, 5 minutes pullups and pushups

Begin 5:30pm

-Traverse Intervals: 5-10 min on, 5 min off x 5 sets (my goal is to have a minimum of 10 min on and  max of 20 min on)

-Lock-offs on overhanging wall, 3-5 reps each side x 5 sets (I should increase reps to 20, on good holds, instead of medium to bad holds, like I was doing last night).

End 7:30pm

A good two hour work out.

Tonight is weight lifting for antagonist muscles and core conditioning.

Posted by: J.D. Isaac | July 6, 2009

Training for Climbing Log: Week 1, Part 1

Today marks the first day of my “4,3,2,1″ perodization schedule for training over the next 10 weeks. Starting today, and ending in 4 weeks, I will be training primarily for endurance through interval training on medium difficulty routes. On my off days, I will be doing light to mid weight lifting to target the antagonist muscles only, which in this case are all my push muscles. I will also be swimming laps on my off days for cardio-conditioning with an emphasis on anaerobic, rather than aerobic, target heart rate.

Right now, I have a tweaked left-middle finger that is on the verge of injury. I also have a slightly tweaked right shoulder that is a result of underdeveloped deltoids and chest muscles. Both have been fully rested the past week, where I have done nothing but swim twice. I have to be careful not to get off track at the gym. I should be doing only easy bouldering, in the V0-V3 range, and only as a warm-up. This means NO PROJECTING on anything. This also applies to roped climbing, nothing over an easy 5.11…and definitely no working routes.

What all of this means is that training will consist primarily of laps on 5.9-5.10, or simply making routes up once I get tired of the monotony. My sets will consist of 3 laps back-to-back, with a rest as my climbing partner does a set. Each climbing set should last about 15-20 minutes on the wall with no break. The goal is to climb in this manner for two hours, then start the supplemental workouts.

Supplemental workouts will include core conditioning, with emphasis on static movement and tension, rather than a number of reps. It also will include a hangboard workout that I can’t remember right now, but is intended to emphasize endurance with feet on, rather than training for finger strength.

I have to be very disciplined about the warm-up routine and am considering running laps outside the gym to break a sweat, then doing pushups and pullups to get blood to the joints, along with an easy hangboard routine for the fingers. I will also stretch for 5 minutes after warm-up and cool-down phases.

My goals for the end of 2009 restated are: Get ready for multi-pitch fun at Red Rocks with my bro around Christmas time. Must be prepared to climb 5.11c/d trad lines; Send Sleeping Beauty at the Tower!; Lead 5.12 sport routes with minimal projecting (i.e. if falling, be able to complete same day or within a couple of days); regularly send V4 and 5 boulder problems, projecting V6.

Tonight is weight lifting and swimming.

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